Just off the coast of Lima, Peru, you’ll find a series of islands often referred to as the “guano islands”. The word guano (‘wanu’) has its origins in Quechua, the language of the Incas. Guano is a natural fertilizer made from bird droppings. The guano from the Peruvian coast is considered the best for farming. The Incas, knowing the value of guano, restricted access to the guano islands and punished anyone disturbing the birds there with death. In the 19th century, guano from Peru became a prized commodity in Europe, and guano is still exported today to Spain and France.

The waters off the shores of Peru are considered some of the most productive on the planet, attracting huge numbers of seabirds. Even though many species inhabit the islands, only three are considered good guano makers – the Peruvian pelican, Peruvian booby, and guanay cormorant. Who knew there was such a difference in the quality of bird droppings?
In addition to bird density, guano abundance in Peru can be attributed to the Humboldt oceanic current. The Humboldt current carries cold water from Antarctica to the equator along the western South American coastline. When the cold water meets the warm air of the region, rainfall is prevented, resulting in extremely arid conditions. It hardly ever rains in Lima and the nearby islands. No rain means no guano removal. The intense sun literally bakes the guano, preserving the nitrates and maintaining its effectiveness as a fertilizer.

If you’re looking for a great day trip while in Lima, consider visiting the Palomino Islands – don’t worry, you can’t smell the guano. You’ll pass by several other islands on the way, and you’ll see thousands upon thousands of marine birds. Keep an eye out for Humboldt penguins sitting low in the water between dives for fish. The Humboldt is the only penguin that calls Peru home. When you get to Palomino, you’ll be greeted by hordes of vociferous sea lions acting as if the chance to see human visitors is the highlight of their day – a warm welcome indeed.

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