Humpback Whales: Banderas Bay, Mexico

In preparation for the December newsletter article on humpback whales in Banderas Bay, Mexico we had a Q&A session with Oscar Frey of Ocean Friendly Tours (www.oceanfriendly.com). Here's an excerpt from the interview.

PT: How long have you been studying whales and what species do you study?
OF: I have been studying whales for 14 years and I am focused on Humpback whales and Gray whales.

PT: What was it about whales that drew you to them over other marine life?
OF: In the first place, their size and scale relative to the ocean and to me created a very special impact on me as a child. Later, what increased my interest was their gentleness and the wide repertoire of vocalizations.


PT: How do you conduct your business differently from your competitors?
OF: I am focused on responsible whale watching. I make longer tours than my competitors. I use specialized hydrophones to listen to the whales' vocalizations and I involve the guests in the quest for whale sightings and in data collection for research. I provide lunch on board and I do not push the tour to accomplish a fixed itinerary aside from the departure and arrival schedule. I modify the itinerary according to the presence, the distribution and the behaviors of whales observed.

PT: Regarding KAP (kite aerial photography), what gave you the idea to use kites and cameras? What style of cameras and lenses do you use?
OF: The Drachen Foundation (www.drachen.org) gave me the idea to use KAP to enhance my research with whales and provided grants to develop the methodology. I use mainly Rokkaku kites and Nikon Digital cameras such as the Nikon D50 SLR camera with Nikon digital lenses such as 35mm lens and a 10.5mm fish eye lens.


PT: How do you insure the safety of the animals that you observe? What other measures do you take to minimize your impact on the environment?
OF: The minimium distance from the whale pods is 100 feet and for no longer that 30 minutes. We also respect that no more than two boats should be observing the same whale or pod. A very important measure for conservation is to avoid running more than one tour everyday on each boat. The way we manage to limit tours is by raising our price a little so that we can raise funds without the need of running two tours a day. The result is a higher price than our competitors but running less boats out on the water per season, therefore less impact on the whales and their environment.

PT: Where and when are the best locations to observe whales in Mexico?
OF: For Humpback Whales, Bahia de Banderas (Banderas Bay) is the best location in Mexico from early December through March. For Gray Whales, Scammon´s Lagoon and San Ignacio Lagoon (Baja) are the best areas from January through early April.


PT: You obviously have had a lot of interactions with whales and other marine species, but do you have a favorite memory of a specific interaction?
OF: I have a memory of a whale that came to me in a very friendly manner. She circled the boat and kept on diving under it, coming back out very slowly and spyhopping at all of us on board. It was like she was trying to tell us something. She made eye contact with me repeatedly and finally approached me so carefully, and allowed me to pet her.

PT: Is there anything else that you would like us to know about you, your research or some new ideas that you are exploring?
OF: Whales have allowed me to learn about the ocean and learn about myself. My research has given me understandings about the challenges that whales face in the modern world and how to minimize the impact of human activities around the whales and other marine species. Environmental education is key for conservation.

Palomino Islands: Peru

Just off the coast of Lima, Peru, you’ll find a series of islands often referred to as the “guano islands”. The word guano (‘wanu’) has its origins in Quechua, the language of the Incas. Guano is a natural fertilizer made from bird droppings. The guano from the Peruvian coast is considered the best for farming. The Incas, knowing the value of guano, restricted access to the guano islands and punished anyone disturbing the birds there with death. In the 19th century, guano from Peru became a prized commodity in Europe, and guano is still exported today to Spain and France.


The waters off the shores of Peru are considered some of the most productive on the planet, attracting huge numbers of seabirds. Even though many species inhabit the islands, only three are considered good guano makers – the Peruvian pelican, Peruvian booby, and guanay cormorant. Who knew there was such a difference in the quality of bird droppings?

In addition to bird density, guano abundance in Peru can be attributed to the Humboldt oceanic current. The Humboldt current carries cold water from Antarctica to the equator along the western South American coastline. When the cold water meets the warm air of the region, rainfall is prevented, resulting in extremely arid conditions. It hardly ever rains in Lima and the nearby islands. No rain means no guano removal. The intense sun literally bakes the guano, preserving the nitrates and maintaining its effectiveness as a fertilizer.


If you’re looking for a great day trip while in Lima, consider visiting the Palomino Islands – don’t worry, you can’t smell the guano. You’ll pass by several other islands on the way, and you’ll see thousands upon thousands of marine birds. Keep an eye out for Humboldt penguins sitting low in the water between dives for fish. The Humboldt is the only penguin that calls Peru home. When you get to Palomino, you’ll be greeted by hordes of vociferous sea lions acting as if the chance to see human visitors is the highlight of their day – a warm welcome indeed.

Chaparrí Ecological Reserve: Peru

West of Chiclayo, approximately an hour and a half away, you’ll find Chaparrí Ecological Reserve, the first private conservation area in Peru. The name Chaparrí comes from the impressive mountain that dominates the landscape there. The 34,412 hectare (~85,000 acre) reserve is owned and managed by the Muchik community of Santa Catalina de Changoyape. The reserve is home to 219 species of birds, 15 mammals, four amphibians, and 22 reptiles. New species are sure to be added to the list as research and habitat protection continue at Chaparrí.

The most notable residents at Chaparrí are the spectacled bear and the white-winged guan. The spectacled bear is the only bear in South America. The bear population at Chaparrí includes individuals from the last remaining viable population of the species inhabiting dry forest. Chaparrí currently has seven bears in enclosures, two of which are ready to be released in the wild soon. In addition, there are close to 20 individuals inhabiting the forests of the reserve.


The white-winged guan is a critically threatened bird that is only found in a small area of dry forest in the areas of Lambayeque, Piura, and Cajamarca in northern Peru. The guan was thought to be extinct for more than a century until it was rediscovered in 1977. Chaparrí has championed a successful reintroduction project and today, you can see more than 60 guans ambling around the reserve.


Chaparrí is well worth the trip from Chiclayo. You can spend a night in the rustic lodge and be lulled to sleep by the sounds of Peruvian pygmy-owls and screech-owls. In the morning, you can hit the trails in search of the reserve’s two famous species. In all likelihood, you’ll see curious foxes, buzzing hummingbirds, and raucous white-tailed jays along the way. The money spent at Chaparrí will help feed the animals, pay the local guides, maintain the facilities, and educate local children. This is sustainable tourism in action.

Peruvian Hairless Dog

If you travel to northern Peru to explore the archaeological sites, keep an eye out for a famous resident of the four-legged kind – the Peruvian hairless dog. As the name suggests, this breed is devoid of hair except for small amounts on its head, feet, and the tip of its tail.


The Peruvian hairless dog is often associated with the Incas, but ceramics from the Moche and Chimu cultures dating back to approximately 800 AD depict this breed. Its exact origin is unknown, but it seems to have always been used for companionship. The Incas are known to have used them has bed warmers. The body temperature of these canines is higher than other breeds so they’re supposed to be ideal for snuggling on a cool night.

The gene dictating hairlessness also affects their number of teeth. The hairless dog lacks molars and often premolars - the same teeth located at the back of your mouth and used for grinding. If you’ve ever watched a dog chewing on a bone, you may have noticed that they work the bone at the back of their mouth. The Peruvian hairless dog doesn’t have that ability so their diet is limited. Out in the wild, they hunt small lizards; prey any bigger would pose a mastication problem. It looks like Llaipi and Al-Aec, residents of Huaca de Luna (Temple of the Moon) near Trujillo, are well taken care of – the reverence for this ancient breed continues.



The hairless dog received national attention in November when the Peruvian government offered a 4-month old puppy named “Machu Picchu” (nicknamed “Ears”) to our new president elect and his family. Despite being naked, warm to the touch, and devoid of some teeth, they make ideal pets for people with allergies. Malia Obama is allergic to dogs. Throw some clothes on the little guy (he seems a little underdressed if you ask me), and maybe we’ll see him strutting his stuff on the White House lawn, conjuring thoughts of Peru in all that see him.

Arrival in Lima, Peru

I finally made it to my hotel in the Miraflores section of Lima just after 1 am local time (two hours ahead of Denver). Total flight time was 8.5 hours passing through Houston International Airport. Most flights from the US arrive in Lima near midnight. If you’re headed to another destination, e.g. Cusco the next morning on an internal flight, try booking a room at the Ramada Costa del Sol at the airport. You’ll give yourself an hour’s worth of additional sleep.

As I made my way through the immigration line at the Lima airport I was thinking how smooth the day had gone. I should’ve never let that thought make its way into conscious thought. As my passport was being scanned, I saw an Interpol warning flash on the screen and the man behind the desk asked me if I had any problems he needed to know about. I said no, and he let me go after a few moments of my heart racing and blood rushing to my face.

A few minutes later at the baggage carousel, an Interpol officer approached me and said he needed to verify my documentation. I thought my heart was racing before. Now, my chest felt like it was going to explode. I told him I wouldn’t go into an office without someone who spoke fluent English and Spanish with us. Luckily, I was able to find a volunteer eager to practice his English. I’m still not sure why my passport was flagged, but apparently I’m not the only Sheridan Samano out there, and the other one must pose a security risk. I always thought my name was unique enough to be a “one and only”.

I hope this isn’t a sign of things to come over the next 9 days. Let me take that back. I guess the adventure has officially begun.