If you Google coca on the internet, many of the websites you’ll pull up deal with the carbonated, caffeinated, and shall I say tasty, beverage Coca-Cola™. This makes sense seeing as the popular beverage, invented in 1886 by a pharmacist in Atlanta, Georgia, contained extracts from the coca plant (
Erythroxylon spp.) until the early 1900’s. Upon my arrival in
Cusco, the Inca capital of Peru, I was on the lookout for a coca beverage of a different name –
mate de coca (coca tea).
The coca plant is native to the Andes mountain range in South America. This species is venerated by the Incas, both past and present. Coca leaves have either been chewed or seeped to make tea by South American indigenous cultures for thousands of years. In Cusco, a city more than 11,000 feet in elevation, coca tea is often times given to travelers to counteract altitude sickness. The tea is known to stimulate respiratory function and to act as an analgesic.
I’m prone to altitude sickness, so I was looking forward to indulging in a beverage sure to counteract the negative side effects associated with my arrival in this two-mile high city. Unfortunately, the coca tea didn’t help me, and I spent my first few hours in Cusco lying flat on my back having succumbed to altitude sickness. Later on in the trip, I discovered a possible explanation for the tea’s lack of effectiveness.
Enter our guide Wagner at
Machu Picchu two days later. Wagner began our tour with the requisite information about Inca construction, their way of life, and agricultural methods. As our tour was winding down, he gathered us into an empty building. I felt like we were about to become the newest members of a secret society. Wagner lowered his voice as he began to extol the virtues of the infamous coca leaf in Inca history.
In Peru, coca leaves are a common sight at markets, but it’s illegal to leave the country with the leaves in tow (unless you live in Bolivia). The coca leaf, admittedly, has attained notoriety; but is the notoriety a byproduct of guilt by association? Cocaine is the villain in this story (as it should be). The
coca leaf, however, is a different matter altogether. The percentage of cocaine in green, dry coca leaves is merely 0.01% (obviously not even enough to counteract my altitude sickness). Synthetic cocaine, the “recreational” variety, has a concentration of 50-100%. Now I’m no mathematician, but that’s a big difference.

During the course of Wagner’s presentation, he focused on the chewing of coca leaves (which in actuality is a sucking of the leaves). So what’s the benefit of chewing coca leaves if it has such a small amount of the active ingredient? That depends on whether or not you chew the leaves before a meal
or whether it’s after a meal. The effects are opposite.
If you chew coca leaves
prior to eating, it stimulates catabolism, or digestion, thereby promoting appetite suppression. Your body thinks it has just eaten and it’s in a restful mode.
If you chew coca leaves
after a meal, it stimulates anabolism, the opposite of catabolism – think of anabolic steroids and major league baseball fame. Coca after a meal puts the body into a higher gear, increasing respiration, relieving pain, and ultimately promoting an increase in muscle mass and subsequent weight gain if you’re participating in strenuous activities. Aha! That just may answer the question: “How did the Incas move those huge stones?” This question was asked on more than one occasion during this trip.
It may also explain why I still felt the negative effects of altitude sickness in Cusco even though I partook in some coca tea – I hadn’t eaten a meal yet. My body was coaxed into a resting state instead of being amped up. Catabolism was stimulated instead of anabolism.
Next time I travel to Cusco, I will make sure to have a snack or meal before drinking coca tea. Better yet, maybe I’ll chew leaves since the effects are supposed to be greater than with the tea. I will also pick up one of those thought-provoking t-shirts stating “La hoja de coca no es droga”. Translation:
the coca leaf is not a drug.